H. Moser & Cie. has built its avant-garde reputation on daring design choices, from using futuristic Vantablack in watches to releasing a “Swiss Mad” timepiece with a case made from actual Swiss cheese.
But somehow, the irreverent watchmaker had never crafted a watch made of ceramic—a material that has become relatively commonplace in luxury horology—until now. Last week’s unveiling of the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic marked something of a milestone in the Zurich company’s design repertoire.
“We never introduce a material simply because it is fashionable,” H. Moser & Cie. CEO Edouard Meylan told Maxim. “Ceramic has been widely used in watchmaking for years, but we wanted to approach it in our own way, when it felt meaningful for the Streamliner and aligned with our philosophy of purity and innovation. The Streamliner is a very sculptural, fluid design. Ceramic allows us to enhance that silhouette while delivering exceptional lightness and durability. It was not about following a trend, but about reinterpreting a contemporary material through the lens of Moser that felt technical, refined, and discreetly bold.”
The new model utilizes an anthracite grey ceramic for its 40mm case and bracelet. The eye-catching red fumé Grand Feu enamel dial was created by engraving a hammered pattern onto a white gold base before applying translucent enamel pigments. That material then underwent successive firings in a kiln to achieve a striking gradient effect that darkens toward the edges. The ceramic stunner also features the Streamliner collection’s signature alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces, including flourishes on the bracelet links and circular brushing on the case. The dial has no indices or logo, all the to better draw the eye to its enamel and the mechanical movement visible at the bottom of the display.
“What I find most compelling is the contrast,” Meylan continued. “You have this dark, architectural ceramic case and bracelet, extremely modern and technical, paired with the warmth and depth of a Grand Feu enamel fumé dial. That tension between cutting-edge material and traditional craftsmanship is very Moser. And of course, the one-minute flying tourbillon with our double hairspring remains at the heart of the piece. Even in a contemporary execution, the watch is fundamentally about precision and mechanical integrity. The Concept approach, with no logo or indices, reinforces that purity and allows the material and the product to speak for themselves.”
The tourbillon referenced by Meylan is positioned at 6 o’clock, for a floating appearance above the dial. The watch is powered by the HMC 805 automatic caliber, an in-house movement with a three-day reserve and a double hairspring made by H. Moser’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG. With two matching hairsprings, the movement is said to compensate for “gravitational displacement” as the springs expand, which, according to H. Moser, improves the watch’s chronometric accuracy.
The movement is dramatically visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, revealing an 18-carat red gold skeletonized oscillating weight and anthracite-finished bridges. Despite the delicate nature of this covetable collector’s piece, the watch’s ceramic case is said to be surprisingly durable and water-resistant to 120 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.
Asked about what unexpected materials may come next for H. Moser’s playfully inventive horologists, Meylan didn’t reveal much. “Ceramic opens interesting possibilities for us as part of a broader dialogue about modern watchmaking,” he said. “You can expect us to continue experimenting, sometimes where it is least expected, but always in a very Moser way.”
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is available now for $112,100.
