Old vines aren’t talked about enough in wine. Supposedly because it’s a little inside baseball—does the average wine drinker care about the age of a plant’s vines? Let’s break down why it matters. Put simply, the longer a vine survives, the less it produces, which isn’t a bad thing. Lower yields result to more concentration, depth, structure and complexity. The vines have had time to age into elegance, and become wise and poised. While the low yields is often a reason winemakers pull old vines out (less grapes mean less bottles), dedicated winemakers are leaning into old vines.
Dr. Laura Catena is one of them. The doctor-slash-winemaker founded Luca Winery with the intention of protecting the old vines in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. She works with a network of old growers who carefully preserve these prized vineyards and one sip proves it. Luca’s old vine Malbec captures the magic and history of Argentina’s enduring vineyards. Made from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and a heaping of Merlot, the wine flirts between juicy boldness and structured, detailed tannins that plate well with the elegance of the cassis and oak. $65
Kate Dingwall is a sommelier and wine writer. Her work frequently appears in Wine Enthusiast, Decanter, Eater, Forbes.com, Vogue, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.
